Having visited the three NEWs (York, Jersey, and Orleans) in the US a few decades ago, when I got a chance to visit the United States this time, I was a bit hesitant to undertake the trip purely for health reasons. I am glad that I could overcome this reluctance and finally landed in Houston. Located in a desert region where space is not an issue, this sprawling city is well spread out and covers a large area. Most buildings are low-rise and well-spaced. The high-rise ones are confined to the Downtown area where old buildings have gone due to high land prices, giving way to high-rise, multistoried complexes. The residential areas are a gated complex with round-the-clock security. Most houses are independent low-rise, with large, well-manicured lawns and a flower garden. Some have a swimming pool, too, in their backyard. It is not just a pool but is also well equipped with grill and barbeque facilities and furnished with all-weather furniture for social gatherings. To keep the pool clean, a robot is at work which switches on periodically to clean the floor of the pool. Of course, the floating debris is to be scooped out manually.
From Cowboy Country to Modern Ranches
I had a chance to travel by road to Austin, the capital of Texas, to look up a friend who lives there. We were traveling on the highway when we learned that we were going through an area that was the cowboy country of the olden days, which had ranches, and the traditional cowboys, wearing hats and armed with guns, would be roaming around on horses. The ranches had long disappeared, giving way to the oil wells that keep pumping oil round the clock. I expressed a desire to visit the area and our return journey was thus on a parallel road that goes through the area where the oil wells and the ranches are located.
Now we were in cowboy country Texas with oil fields all around. Here, if you strike oil, it belongs to you and not to the state.
My memory goes back to the 1950s or so when we used to watch Western movies with rustic cowboys wearing jeans, hats, and wielding guns, riding a horse to the wayside country pubs. On the slightest provocation, guns would be out, and someone would be lying on the ground, dead or wounded. The Sheriff would then arrive and take charge of the situation.
Remember James Dean? His famous movie GIANT of 1956 with Liz Taylor and Rock Hudson! James Dean was a rustic but good-looking farm help. Liz’s younger sister gifted a piece of land to him which fell between two lands that were of Rock Hudson. He offered James Dean more than double the amount that his land was worth but he refused to sell and built his own ranch and started living there with Liz Taylor visiting him often.
One day, as he was returning after seeing her off to her carriage, he saw some black spots in the dugout that her high-heeled shoes had left in the soft ground. He touched the spot with his fingers and realised that he was sitting on an oil field! Oil exploration started.
I remember that scene when, after a lot of sound of sputtering of gas and debris, a tall column of black oil rose and went high up in the air. It came down on James Dean standing underneath, enjoying the oil bath with long arms stretched wide and loud laughter at this sudden change in his luck.
Things moved fast, and soon he was a rich, wealthy man with women falling head over heels with each other to get his attention. That also included Liz Taylor’s daughter, who was now a grown-up girl. James Dean’s interest, however, was still in Liz Taylor and his infatuation for her had not diminished with time.
I remember the last scene also clearly when at the end of a reception organized in his honour, he stood up to speak, he had had one drink too many that evening and fell flat on the table with his long arms widespread. The hall was empty with tables yet to be cleared and waiters peeping inside waiting for James Dean to leave. How could they clear the tables when the Chief Guest had still not left!
I expressed a desire to visit a Ranch and was told that none existed. No one lives there, and only the caretakers are around. The oil wells work on their own, pumping out oil round the clock which gets stored in giant tanks, from where oil tankers fill up and the crude reaches the designated oil refinery. Only technicians visit the ranches to repair if any fault develops in the system.
The owners live far away in the cozy comfort of their mansion or a villa.
Most are Republicans and Trump followers. One call from him, and all Texans are out with their weapons. Here, they own an armory, not just a gun.
On our way back, we took a road which is parallel to the main highway that passes through the countryside where all the oil fields and the farms are located. The entire countryside is fenced with boards warning of trespassing. We entered one farm and someone pointed to the warning board. My remark was that it is wrongly worded. We are visiting the farm, not trespassing. No one turned up and we came out after taking a few pictures of the oil fields and farms rearing cows both for dairy and beef. The dairy cows are named as Brahman cows!
Longhorn are to be found in all parts of Texas. In earlier days, they were used as milch animal but with better variety of animals becoming available, their use as milch animal has been discontinued. Now, their use is ornamental only. Some use them as pets. Not a good sight though to look at.
In the US, the highways run across the country from East to West and North to South and pass through all the major cities en route, rather than bypassing them, as is done in India. The city of Houston has come up across the intersection of East-West and North-South highways. As a city is reached, a three-lane road joins parallel to the highway alongside on the right and continues through the length of the metropolis. This is to cater to the daily city traffic who use the same road to commute. The rest of the highway is a three-lane stretch. The highway we were on is called I10 and runs right from Florida to California, covering a distance of 2700 miles. Imagine the long stretch without any road sign or a diversion? The distance to a location is always given in terms of traveling time taken and not in terms of miles. Where the road passes alongside a residential area, a protective wall is built right through the length to insulate the residents from noise pollution. The sound of the highway traffic can be quite deafening and annoying. The roads in and around a residential area have footpaths and cycling tracks. In such areas, wayside parking on the roads is permitted. Sound of horn, I never heard. Within colonies, where STOP signs can be seen, it is customary to bring the car to a dead halt before proceeding. It has become a habit of drivers to do so, even where no such signs have been posted. Self-discipline imposed goes a long way in ensuring an accident-free zone. Two or three-wheelers do not exist, as in a country where the driving speed is very fast, they simply cannot survive.
Along the route are alert signs giving information about missing persons. The ones that pertain to children are called Amber Alert, and the ones for seniors are known as Silver Alert. Any information about the missing persons is to be given to the police on 999, which sets the rescue process in action. Without much loss of time, the lost ones are restored to their families.
We were traveling one day when a tall building full of cars caught my attention. On inquiring, I learnt that it was a tower designed like car vending machine. A buyer can access them online to know all the details. Bargaining on price is possible but to a certain extent only. The car can then be delivered to your residence after the documentation and payment process is over. There is no such thing as you booking a test drive and the car with the driver being sent to your residence like we in India normally do. In a rare case, a return or exchange of a car is possible but only within a few days of purchase. The returned cars are then sold at a discounted price. The easy availability of leases and low interest rates make it easier for a person to own a car. It is interesting to note that there is no vintage limit beyond which a car cannot be used. It entirely depends on the roadworthiness of the car. In case of an accident, a certificate of fitness of the car is a must.
I am reminded of a story that happened several decades ago, in a particular year. It was found that divorce rates in the US had suddenly gone up. Upon investigation, it was found that in that particular year, self-starters were introduced for the first time in automobiles. American women now had no need to crank start their car every morning while going to work. The husband had thus now become redundant, and on the slightest pretext, the sulking husband was giving the boot.
Life in the US
Health is not a state subject. So, there are no government hospitals in the country. All hospitals are entirely in private domain and the cost of medication in the US is quite high. The country boasts of the best medical facility, but it is all paid for, either by the individual or the insurance company. Almost every citizen has insurance cover. For the poor who cannot afford it, the govt plans provide low-cost insurance.
Americans are a very kind and vibrant society and they care for the ‘have nots’. Philanthropy, charity and donations are a way of their life. The rich ones set aside a substantial portion of their funds for a charitable cause. Employees are encouraged to donate and the companies donate double the amount for the same cause to make the donation meaningful.
There are large donation stores where one can deposit items they no longer need but are in good condition with enough remaining life. The needy people then buy them from these stores at a very nominal price.
We were looking for a place where one could get a feel of authentic Texan flavour and we landed at Taste of Texas, a restaurant that served Texan cuisine. It was a sprawling place covering a large area with several dining halls. One had to book a table in advance to get seated. It is packed on weekends and has a large waiting area with seating arrangements where one can wait for their turn. Bar facilities are available for them so that they can get their drinks while waiting for their turn to enter the dining hall.
We went on a weekday and still it was full. On the walls all round, were objects on display relating to the times of old cowboy days. There were all types of guns, horse saddle, portraits of actors who played lead roles in cowboy movies, there was also a signed portrait of John Wayne, who was a famous actor of his time and played the lead role in such movies. A collection of various logos caught my attention. On inquiring, it was found that it was worn on the neck of a cattle to identify the ranch to which they belonged. The cuisine served was excellent. A three-course dinner started with an appetizer and then you went to the salad bar which was well stocked with lots of varieties. The main course consisted of steaks and fried shrimp with a variety of bread. Finally, a platter of dessert from which we could choose what we wanted, which was later served in a plate. The dinner with four people cost us $200, but it was well worth the price.
Indian Americans
A mention must be made of the Indian diaspora, or the Parvasi Bhartiya as we may call them, who constitute a sizeable number of American citizens. Over two million Indians have settled here. It is heartening to note that they are treated at par with others, and there is no apparent bias against them. One was under the impression that most of them were the ones who were picked up at the campus interview at the various IITs or IIMs in India and have come here and become citizens of the US over a period of time. I was surprised when I met quite a few who were industrialists or entrepreneurs. I met one Col Bhalla, who took pre-mature retirement in 1973 and is now the owner of various business houses. One of them is a whole wing in a major hospital. They are called millionaires, which is not a big deal in India. You would think that they have a retinue of help at home when you visit them. You may find him cleaning his car or helping his wife in the kitchen or mowing the lawn. I also noticed that they met each other socially very frequently, mostly for dinner where the menu was not very elaborate. Before they left, they would help the host with clearing up of the table, so that their after-dinner task is simplified to a large extent.
As I look deeper around here, some startling facts come to light about the Indians in the States. We were under the impression that well-qualified people came here, got a job, and then settled down here for good. We never thought that there could be entrepreneurs, industrialist’s businessmen too amongst us. There are quite a few who own large tracts of farmland. Already there is a Vice President. Who knows one day an Indian may become the President too!
There is a private airport nearby, owned by an Indian. Both commercial and private flights operate from there.
A large number of Indian-origin people are actively involved in politics.
Texas Sights & Sounds
It is interesting to note that all water reservoirs in the country are managed by the Corps of Engineers of the US Army. What a useful way of peace time use of their resources. They, too, miscalculated nature’s fury some years back when large tracts of area in Houston were inundated under water, causing massive destruction to houses. Here, all residential areas are low rise independent houses and not high-rise buildings which are few in numbers. Very few people take insurance cover against flood, and they suffered heavy financial loss.
Another feather in the cap of US Corps of Engineers. In 2005 the entire city of New Orleans was flooded when the embankment on Mississippi River broke. The locals of the city curse the Corps of Engineers no end for the heavy losses that they had to suffer.
Once, when we were out on a drive, we passed a road whose arrow sign read ‘West Houston Airport.’ On inquiry, we learned that it was a private airport, owned by an American. Quite a few such airports exist in the country. In America, privately owned airports exist where you can hire a plane for a nearby destination which are a few hours drive away. One can hire a plane for to-and-fro travel with pick up and drop facility at the distant end. Ideal for small groups of people who are interested to attend a meeting and return at the end of the day. They avoid the time consumed in check in at both ends besides being cheaper and convenient. The airports are fully equipped with ATC, hangers for the planes, the lounge, cafeteria and of course, a well-stocked bar.
One day we were heading towards The Gulf of Mexico situated at the Mouth of Clear River located around 90 mins drive from Houston. This is where all the shipping activity of Houston and nearby areas happens. The mission was to have a seafood lunch at a popular restaurant there. Must have travelled for around 45 mins when strange objects began to appear in view. First, was two giant rockets sticking out in the sky. Then came in view a small aircraft atop a giant plane. I remembered having seen this pic earlier and asked our host where we were. He said, “Oh! we are passing right though NASA Houston.” I said let’s stop right here as I had desperately wanted to see this complex. The answer was, “We can do this on our return journey and would have enough time to see in detail all that we wanted to see.”
When the NASA Space Centre near Houston was conceived, three major requirements of the site were spelt out. First, the land should be large enough, not less than a thousand sq km to accommodate all elements of the Centre. Second, it should be close to a major university so that the intellectual needs of the astronauts can be met. Lastly, it should be close to a major airport for obvious reasons. The current site, measuring around 1600 sq km, met all these criteria besides being less pricy. That is how the Space Centre next to Clear Lake, on the mouth of the Gulf of Mexico, came up in 1958. Out in the open well spread out, we saw the Space Shuttle Independence atop a giant plane, now leading a life of retirement. Also saw Rockets that are used to train the astronauts. The first Capsule that made the soft landing on the Moon is also there. Perhaps, the pride of the place would have been the Space Shuttle Challenger carrying Kalpana Chawla along with six other astronauts, had not burnt out and disintegrated in Space.
NASA has a workforce of around 75,000 and has spent billions of dollars for decades. They are working on project Artemis, which aims to put women on the Moon in a few years. Apart from being a technological achievement, it is only a conjecture about what we have gained.
Our own success story of Chandrayaan 3, notwithstanding it, is for consideration whether we can match other developed countries as far as spending on the project is concerned.
India vs. the US
My trip to the US this time has been unique for many reasons. For one, it gave me a chance to have a close look at the lifestyle and way of life of the American people. With live-in being the accepted norm in the society, most children move out of their parent’s house and set up their own habitat. If the son happens to visit his parents, the mother will ask just once if he wants to eat something. If the answer is no, then the matter ends. With our family bonding being strong, it is a rarity that the son lives separately in the same town unless he is married and has his own family. If the mother gets to know of her son’s visit, preparations will begin well in advance, with her being busy preparing his favorite dishes. As for the elders, in the US, with both husband and wife working, they mostly take care of themselves. If they are too aged, then old age homes are where they live with an occasional visit with their children. In our country, things are quite different. We are still quite strongly connected to our roots. A daughter-in-law is supposed to do this, and she takes good care of her in-laws and does this cheerfully with all the love and affection.
Govt schools and colleges provide quality education for all at affordable fees. A certain percentage of seats are also reserved in major public schools, where bright students from poor families get admission and pay a nominal fee. Thus, they have a chance to get a better quality of education and be on par with students from affluent societies.
All said and done, India is a very much happening country, but cracks have now started appearing in the otherwise seaming-less society. Live-in has become an accepted norm in the urban and affluent classes. Break up, in most cases, is never peaceful and often ends up in a crime. News of a person being behind bars for having got rid of his live-in partner has now become quite common. Still, we remain a tolerant, peace-loving society, unlike the West, where on the pretext, a person wants a divorce.
In politics, however, the matter is quite different. We leave everyone behind where the numbers are concerned. In both the US and the UK, only two parties exist. Here, the numbers are quite large and you cannot count on your fingertips. The result is that a party with 30-35% votes can form a Govt by forging alliances with other parties. All pre-poll promises thus remain on the wish list of the poor voter.