Union Territory Ladakh, known as the ‘Land of High Passes,’ is a mountainous region in northern India, renowned for its stunning landscapes and rich Buddhist culture. Located in the Himalayas and Karakoram ranges, it’s a cold desert with dramatic scenery, including snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, the Indus River and its tributary, the Shyok River, which originates from Siachen Glacier and gets its name from a Ladakhi word meaning ‘the river of death,’ Pangong Tso (lake), and Spanggur Tso (lake). Its unique culture, influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, is evident in its monasteries, like Hemis and Thiksey, and its vibrant festivals. Ladakh is a popular destination for adventure tourism and offers activities like trekking and river rafting.
Ladakh’s military importance stems from its strategic location and disputed international border (IB) with China and Pakistan, making it a crucial area for India’s defense and national security. The region’s rugged terrain and high-altitude environment pose unique challenges for military operations. In the 1962 Sino-Indian War, fierce battles were in Chushul, with an outstanding action by the 114 Ahirs out of the 120 of the Charlie Company of 13 KUMAON deployed at Rezang La (Pass) featured on 18 Nov 1962. Proudly, I was commissioned in 13 Kumaon, and ever since, I have been a die-hard Kumaoni. I have written numerous articles about the unit’s bravery, grit, determination, sacrifices, and honors and awards for its being one of the few ‘Bravest of the Brave‘ battalions. My 13-year-old granddaughter, Ariaana Bhatia, was really motivated to visit Chushul and pay homage to warriors of his grandfather’s Paltan. The trip was meticulously planned—a trip to Ladakh, culminating with wreath laying at Rezang La Memorial on 16 Jul 2025, by her maternal grandfather, Col. Vinod Ahluwalia, an equally proud 5 BIHAR veteran, which he commanded at Siachen Glacier. Ariaana was accompanied by her maternal aunt, Ms. Kanchi Kaul, a renowned TV personality and wife of popular TV and big-screen actor Shabir Ahluwalia, who is the brother-in-law of my son Capt. Gaurav Bhatia (Master Mariner), and her two sons, Azai Ahluwalia (10 yrs.) & Ivaar Ahluwalia (9 yrs.).
Ladakh offers a stunning array of important places to visit, from high-altitude lakes and mountain passes to ancient monasteries and historical sites. Key attractions include Pangong Tso, Khardung La (Pass), Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Thiksey & Diskit Monasteries, Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Hunder sand dunes, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, Magnetic Hill, Indus & Zanskar rivers Sangam, rafting at Zanskar, Rezang La War Memorial, Hanle, Nyoma, and the Hall of Fame. Adventure enthusiasts can also explore trekking routes, mountain biking trails, and rafting spots.
Itinerary Planned
With detailed planning, coordination, and accommodation fixed in the army’s numerous officers’ messes, the party of four reached Leh by Air India flight via the Mumbai-Delhi-Leh flight on 10 Jul 2025 for a Ladakh sojourn till 18 Jul 2025, the day of flying back home, which included high-altitude acclimatization and sightseeingin Leh and other invaluably splendid remote places in Ladakh as described in the succeeding paragraphs.
High-altitude acclimatization is crucial when moving from the plains of India to higher elevations because the body needs time to adjust to the significantly lower oxygen levels and reduced atmospheric pressure. Without acclimatization, individuals are at risk of altitude sickness and other serious health complications due to reduced oxygen availability, high-altitude sickness, the acclimatization process, and the importance of a gradual climb and ascent that varies with individual variations, lasting 3 to 4 days.
They arrived and rested on 10 Jul 2025 in the Officers’ Mess, and the next day visited Gurudwara Pathar Sahib—a beautiful Gurudwara Sahib constructed in the memory of Guru Nanak, about 25 miles away from Leh, on the Leh-Kargil road. Magnetic Hill, Sangam (the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers), and river rafting on the Zanskar are popular attractions in the Leh-Ladakh region of India. Magnetic Hill is known for the optical illusion where vehicles appear to move uphill on their own. Sangam is a scenic spot where the Indus and Zanskar rivers meet, with distinct colors that make for a beautiful sight. The Zanskar River is a popular destination for whitewater rafting, offering adventurous rapids amidst stunning natural mountainous scenic beauty. In the evening they went around Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa, offering unique experiences. Leh Palace, a towering nine-story structure, showcases the royal history and architectural style of the Namgyal dynasty. Shanti Stupa, a white-domed Buddhist monument, is known for its peaceful ambiance and panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
On the 12th of Jul 2025, they visited Leh market, which is the central hub for shopping and experiencing local life, and 19 km away, Thiksey Monastery, which is a prominent Buddhist monastery known for its impressive architecture and spiritual significance.
The next day, on 13 July, they drove 160 km from Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La, crossing the thrilling highest road in the world, encountering hundreds of dunes in the high-altitude desert, enjoying a double-hump camel ride, seeing Diskit Monastery, and staying the night at Hunder in the Partapur Sector, allowing for a peaceful stay amidst the valley’s scenic beauty. Nubra Valley, where Turtuk is situated, is a destination in itself. Nubra Valley is known for its barren desert landscapes, lush green valleys, and unique mix of Buddhist and Central Asian culture. Turtuk was attacked by Pakistan in the 1971 Indo-Pak War and subsequently recaptured by the Indian forces.
On 14 Jul the group traveled from Nubra to Turtuk, 150 km apart on the winding drive. Turtuk is a small, peaceful, beautiful, traditional Ladakhi historic village with the Shyok River flowing and offering serenity and tranquility and a centuries-old fort that was home of the local royal family and served as a strategic stronghold in the area. It’s located at the top of a hill, and the fort offers stunning views of the Shyok River and the Nubra Valley, popular for trekking, exploring the valley, apricot trees, and farming, and they spent a comfortable night at Partapur garrison.
The next day, on 15 Jul, they travelled 160 km in a 6-hour drive from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso saltwater lake, located at the disputed Indo-China border at the Line of Actual Control (LoAC), via the shorter and easier Shyok route, traveling via Wari La (Pass). Pangong Lake, situated at a height of almost 4,350 meters, is the world’s highest. Its water, which seems to be dyed in blue, stands in stark contrast to the arid mountains surrounding it. The lake is a beautiful place to visit, and one feels it is more scenic when the sky is blue. The surrounding view of mountains are tremendous and breathtaking. The night halt was at Pangong Tso only after the tiring but exciting day.
The tiny Hanle village of 1000 people is truly the most understated and harsh part of any Ladakh trip. Situated about 260 km from Leh, very close to the Line of Actual Control, with pleasantly smooth roads and with a monastery perched atop a hill and our country’s highest observatory at an elevation of 4500 m—the Indian Astronomical Observatory. It’s one of the highest and best astronomical observatories in the world due to its dark skies and low atmospheric water vapor for gazing at stars on cold, romantic nights!
Homage at Rezang La War Memorial
On 16 Jul 2025, they drove nearly 115 km—a 2 hrs & 30 mins drive—to Chushul and onto Rezang La, around 13 km from Chushul, in a half-hour drive, where the Rezang La War Memorial (Ahir Dham) is constructed in the memories of 114 Ahir Bravehearts of 13 KUMAON martyred under the leadership of the late Major Shaitan Singh, who was awarded the posthumous Param Vir Chakra (PVC) on 18 Nov 1962. Being a die-hard Kumaoni commissioned in 13 KUMAON after the 1962 Sino-Indian War, I was privileged to be commissioned in this Paltan that later, with the highest peacetimeposthumous award of Ashok Chakra to the late Subedar Sajjan Singh in Operation Eagle on 26 Sept 1994, became one of the rarest ‘Bravest of Brave’ Paltans.
What a GREAT moment it was for 13-year-old Ariaana Bhatia with her younger cousins Azai (10) and Ivan (9) to lay a wreath at the Rezang La Memorial on 16 Jul 2025 with the National Salute, the sounding of the Last Post, and the gifting of the coffee table book ‘Reminiscing Battle of Rezang La,’ written by me, to the Rezang La Memorial library. The book was sponsored by Lt Gen BS Sherawat, AVSM, SM, who was commissioned and commanded 13 KUMAON and then was the ‘Colonel of the Regiment’ (COR). The foreword of the book was written by 13 KUMAON veteran Brig RV Jatar (then Major), who was deployed at Mugger Hill during the Rezang La Battle. It was officially released on the Rezang La Day on 18 Nov 2019 during 13 KUMAON’s tenure in Delhi. I will ever cherish this proud & emotional moment. My compliments & blessings to the young motivated with the highest esprit de corps inherited from their respective Fauji grandfathers!
Staying overnight in Chushul, on 17 Jul 2025, they drove back to Leh via Nyoma, enjoying a tank ride, and returned home by Air India flight on 18 Jul 2025, thus ending their tiring but hectic Ladakh trip with the inspiring and patriotic Rezang La War Memorial wreath-laying ceremony etched in their memories forever.